Follow the Adventures of a group through our longest and toughest expedition. The Ultimate Trans Africa. An amazing tour starting London then through Africa in 43 weeks, down the entire west coast then back up thru eastern Africa and into the Middle East, ending in Istanbul.
Since the last entry, we have traveled from Chefchuan to Morocco’s capital city, Rabat where we had to get visas for Mali and Mauritania. Some of the group went off on a side trip to see the city made famous by the Bogart film Casablanca. Visas obtained, we drove off and explored the grounds of the ancient Hellenic city of Volubilis. From there we made our way to Fes where we explored the old city and took in a little culture.
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Things are going well. Very well when you sit down and really think about what we’re doing here. One wouldn’t expect to put 26 people on one massive, rather rustic vehicle, plunk them down into a completely foreign environment and have everything run smoothly from the get-go. Still, that’s how things seem to be going. The troops have adapted to truck life readily. We’ve got some absolute naturals on the truck who know exactly how to live this rather unconventional life. It is not usually the easiest adjustment for everyone to make. Truck life is awesome but it is very, very different from what most of us consider the norm.
Sleeping in tents every night isn’t something most people do. Bush camping defies our urbanized sense of what accommodation should be. Cooking over an open fire is a rather foreign concept to anyone who has grown up in the Western civilization. Electricity, something we consider a basic human right in most of our home countries, is scarce here. Internet, when you can find it, is tragically far from high speed. Water quality can’t always be trusted – you never know if it’s going to send you searching frantically for a toilet which can sometimes be a mission in itself. Hell, as we learned this week, water sometimes isn’t available at all. The modern conveniences that we often take for granted suddenly become unavailable. It’s all quite a dramatic change from the comfortable lives most of us are used to living.
I imagine what most of the passengers find the biggest adjustment of all, though, is learning to live in such close proximity to so many people that right now are barely more than strangers. In a pretty confined space, no less. That certainly won’t be the case at the end of the trip. We’ll be like family. For the time being, though, it is a little strange. It just isn’t a situation most are used to.
Adapting to truck life isn’t always exactly a fluid transition. These guys, however, have proven that it can be done in a relatively short period of time.
RABAT
Along the way we stop at some incredible places and see some amazing things. This can’t always be the case, though. Sometimes necessity puts us places that we’d rather not be. Rabat was a required multi-day stop. This is where we had to get our visas for Mali and Mauritania. Rabat itself was lovely. The campsite however left something to be desired.
Every former Western Trans passenger we talked to regarding the subject told us the same thing:
“Find a new campsite in Rabat. Temara Plage is a sh**hole.” Pardon the profanity, but it was really always those exact words. And I’m not talking just one or two people. There were multiple sources.
I tried. The internet wasn’t helpful and I found no book with useful information. One wouldn’t really call Rabat a tourist hot spot. I think I did the best I could without actually planning a reconnaissance mission to Morocco prior to the trip. The cost and timing voided that idea but it did cross my mind.
So, here we are. Tamara Plage. And it is exactly as we were told. I’d call it a visually depressing, overgrown lot that probably was quite a decent place when they last did some maintenance, back in …say… 1956. Now it serves primarily as one gigantic litter box for the colony of feral cats that prowl the grounds. If you wanted an illustration of the word derelict, you’d take a photo of this joint. So, in truth, if you wanted a shorter description one probably would just use the colorful expression the veteran Trans passengers used.
By no means is this place the worst I have seen and surely not the most rustic accommodations we will encounter. The grounds are sandwiched between a popular beachfront park and a main road so we’ve got plenty to see in the area. The manual flush, squat toilets are relatively clean-ish and only one of the four is missing a door. On the down side, there are no showers so we’ve had to get inventive. Some of us have been taking bucket baths. I, myself, have been washing my hair with the aid of a camp shower hung off the side of the truck. The water and electricity get shut off for nearly the whole day every day. These are things I can happily live with. Paying what we’re paying for the privilege of staying in the campsite time forgot and being denied water and electricity (which they most certainly can provide but won’t!) rubs me the wrong way.
The main mission in Rabat was to obtain our Mali and Mauritania travel visas. Gavin and I were able to do this job ourselves once everyone provided us with the documents and necessary photos. This left time for those who were interested in visiting Casablanca to do so. I can’t tell you about that but if you refer to Dan’s blog at saxyworldtraveler.blogspot.com you might be able to read a bit about that experience.
Most of the things one experiences while traveling, good or bad, just add to the adventure. The good times are just that: Good. Harrowing or uncomfortable experiences are usually reflected on with a kind of affection or appreciation. The one thing you rarely hear travelers wax poetic about is the visa process.
No matter where you are or where you’re going, it is one of the few unpleasant travel experiences that fails to yield later reminiscing pleasure. There is no romance involved in filing paperwork and spending hours at a foreign embassy, battling rude people for a place in line, dealing with officials who are constantly being harassed, which their mood often reflects. But it must be done.
Before Gav and I could go off to the embassies we all had to have all the forms completed. It took a couple hours for us to sort out the paper work, the first challenge being that the entirety of the Mauritanian visa application was in French. Not just straight forward “Nom” , “Prenom”, “Date De Naissance”, etc. There were a few obscure questions in there which also threw us for a loop. Chris H. and Mike proved very helpful in deciphering some of the more confusing questions. “ Si vous residez dans un pays autre que votre pays d’orgine, etes-vous autorise a retourner dans ce pays?” was probably the one we got stuck on the longest.
After finishing those and organizing payment, photos, etc. Gavin and I were finally ready to head out. We did our best to look presentable. Morocco is not at all as conservative as some of the Middle Eastern countries. I wasn’t too sure about Mauritania though so I changed out of my infidel harlot outfit (jeans and a v neck t-shirt) into something more presentable. That is, a getup that left everything to the imagination except my wrists and anything above the jaw line. For Gav, looking presentable meant he had to put on his one clean shirt.
I could go on about the whole visa process. I could make it sound intriguing… bribery, competition, deceit. Ok. Not really deceit but it sounded good, right? I won’t though. Basically it just involved a lot of waiting around and sucking up to government employees. Not something you really want to waste your time reading about is it?
FES
We opted for a guided tour of Fes. Kamal came recommended by some other overlanders so we called him up to show us around town. Kamal was dressed in traditional Moroccan clothing but I couldn’t help thinking he looked like one of Star Wars’ Jawas with designer glasses.
Kamal led an excellent tour. We saw the King’s Palace, a pottery shop, and a panoramic view of the city. In the afternoon were then led through the rabbit warren that is the medina.
The chaos of the sights and sounds and crowds blended together to create a truly exotic sensory overload. The sweet smells from the candy shops mingled with the oily aromas from the food stalls, the smell of sawdust from the carpenters, the odor of donkeys, cats, chickens, ripening meat, fresh fruit and incense smoke. The mix created an atmosphere that was overwhelming but unexpectedly pleasant. Voices shouting in French and Arabic, animal sounds, music from various radios, hoof beats, saws, clanking dishes, and nondescript hums offered the soundtrack to the experience.
Shops on either side of the small alleys sold stationary, perfume, colorful cloths, lamps, or meats that were hanging from the rafters of the stalls. Every now and then we’d have to flatten ourselves against the stone or mud walls in order to make way for a donkey loaded up with bags and crates and sacks of who knows what.
The butchers all had an array of offal for sale; unidentifiable, apparently edible organs displayed on saturated wooden counters. Several stalls had a wall of chicken pens, stocked with live chickens, less than a meter away from a table where a man was hacking up and plucking one or more of their former cellmates.
Fes is probably best know for its tanneries. We climbed up a narrow stairway into a leather shop to get a glimpse of this iconic sight. From their rooftop platform we could look down on the men preparing hides. There were dozens of pools with different, richly colored liquids containing an array of unusual and odoriferous ingredients: everything from animal fats, cow’s urine, chromium salts, sulphuric acid, pigeon droppings, red poppy extracts, and fish oils. Barefoot men were moving the skins from one concrete pool to another while others were dunking them in the solutions. They were preparing the leather as it has been done for centuries. It was incredible.
After the tanneries we were led through an alley. Kev was in the lead, walking along coolly. Following our guide he rounded a corner, then immediately assumed a more ridged posture and let out an emphatic protest: “Nope! Uh- uh. No more carpet shops!”, He was reflecting the sentiment of the majority of us. A rebellion of about 20 people was brewing.
“But this is where we eat lunch.” Kalmal explained to Kev and the mostly famished group.
“Oh. Alright then.” Kev said, relaxing his posture and proceeding indoors. Rebellion averted.
We bypassed the rug shop and headed to the terrace upstairs where we ate our Moroccan hamburgers and drank mint tea.
In the evening some of us went out for dinner and a show. Sean, Jeremy, and Mayumi all dressed up for the occasion…. In jalabas and a kaftan. The 5 course meal was excellent. The show was pretty good as well, complete with live music, a magician, belly dancers, and a wedding ceremony which Mayumi took part in.
Belly dancing is usually synonymous with gorgeous, fit women that have the ability to hypnotize men and women alike. So, I’ll be honest here; it was a bit of a shock when the first pink satin clad performer came out. A woman in her mid 40s with a severe overbite, a big gap in between her two front teeth, and about a dozen kilos in excess baggage came on stage and starting shaking what her mama gave her. Don’t get me wrong, the woman did have talent and was quite entertaining. Her fire eating was especially impressive. She just wasn’t what we all expected and it left us all momentarily stunned. Another few belly dancers performed over the course of the evening. Turns out that young, beautiful dancer was saved for the finale.
The evening continued and Sean D., Sean W., Dan, Mayumi, Hisashi, and Phil all had their moment in the spotlight. Out of an audience of over 100 people, both Phil and Dan were getting especially picked on. More than one of the performers pulled them up to dance. The rest of us cowered behind them silently pleading under our breath “Please don’t pick me. Please don’t pick me….” We didn’t all get our wish but it was still a fantastic evening.
From here we plan to travel through the Atlas Mountains, to see Todra Gorge where we’ll do some hiking. After that it will be on to Marakech. When we finish up there the trip will start to get very different as we head off into the vast Western Sahara. It will be one of the more challenging portions of our journey but one I think we’re all looking forward to.
It has begun. This event that many of us have been waiting for for months or more. We have just embarked on the adventure of a lifetime. Potentially the challenge of a lifetime. Quite possibly the most incredible, most inspirational, most enlightening, most insane thing some of us have ever done. It has begun.
For myself (Summer) and Gavin the trip started roughly a month ago in Turkey where our truck had been parked up between trips. Turkish customs officials are not known for their cooperative spirit or hospitality and they met our expectations with a quiet enthusiasm. They did not make it easy for us in the least bit. We couldn’t get out of Turkey quick enough and within hours of releasing the truck from the customs yard we found ourselves in Greece.
We breezed through Italy, flew through France and eventually found ourselves in Malaga, Spain. There we parked up in what amounted to a mobile German retirement community. Our big, rough looking truck provided a source of amusement and bewilderment for the geriatric Germans. Gavin and I were quite popular. We stayed there about a week, sanding, varnishing, installing, making all the necessary repairs. That finished, we left the seasonal village with a grand send off. Everyone came out to see us leave. We carried on to Algeciras and Gibraltar where we met our 24 passengers.
The flight that brought the rest of the gang with it was an hour late. It was an appropriate start to the trip. Nothing happens when it’s supposed to happen in Africa and it’s best to learn that early.
The next day we made our way to the port in Algeciras where we picked up the ferry to Cueta. We loaded the truck on and then made our way into the luxurious vessel. The only regrettable thing about this journey was its length. Much too short as the ferry was beautiful.
The Moroccan border was very much what one would expect it to be: Chaotic. Mohammed , Mohammed and Mohammed (no, that’s not a joke) approached Gavin and me offering help with the immigration and customs procedures.
“Collect all the passports, now!” Mohammed #1, in the brown jalaba ordered me. I did. All 26 of them.
“Now give me the white cards that they gave you on the ferry.”
“We didn’t get white cards.” I informed him
“Ahhh! Then here,” He handed me a stack of white immigration cards “Have the passengers fill these out.” I did. Little problem: Mohammed #2, who was nowhere to be found, had everyone’s documents and not everyone knows their passport information by heart. A panicked rush to find Mohammed #2 ensued to no avail. I had to come up with a backup plan. Mid way through the execution of this backup plan Mohammed #2 turns up from God knows where with the passports. After the information was successfully garnered, passports were re-collected and I get told to take them to the police. Huh? I take them isn’t that what Mohammed #2 was supposed to do? Then why did Mohammed #2 take them in the first place? I’m confused but I comply.
Passports go to get checked by the police (twice). Meanwhile everyone is taking turns in the “Doctor’s Office”, a small white tent where a man with a computer looks at you through what I can only assume is an infrared filter. His job is to confirm whether or not you have Swine Flu. I’m happy to report that we all passed the test . According to Morocco’s finest technology, we are all completely healthy.
Back at the police office the passports all also seem to pass whatever test it was that the officer was putting them through. He asked me for a “gift” for all his troubles. While usually this can be a good idea, I’m still not skilled in discerning when and where it’s appropriate so I just gave him the innocent smile and tell him “Oh. That’s silly. I’m a woman! My husband controls all the money. You can talk to him.” Which they rarely bother to do.
Then there’s paperwork and more hassle with the police and this document and that document and this “problem” and that “problem” that can mysteriously be rectified with a little fee to either the “helpers” or the cops. Finally, the truck in boarded by a police officer who verifies that everyone in the truck has a stamped passport and we’re officially in Morocco. On to Martil!
In Martil we camped up at a little campsite near the center of town. We spent two days here just to get the truck organized and so everyone could settle in a bit. Lena, Katey, Daniel, Kev, Craig, and a few others had a great and cheap lunch in town. I was told that the squid sandwich was excellent. A few took advantage of the internet. Peter and Mayumi were given an octopus by one of the locals on the beach and Carolina has said she’ll show them how to cook it.
Martil was a good opportunity to settle in but today we were off down the road again. We were also on time this morning which is an incredibly rare event among most of the previous groups Gav and I have had. This is shaping up to be an excellent group.
We drove towards Tetouan and when we reached the outskirts of the city, a jalaba donning man on a motorcycle pulled up beside us and yelled:
“Where you go?”
“To the medina.” Gav replied
“Follow me.”
We followed the man, who later introduced himself as Rashid, to a parking spot outside the walled section of the city. Inside the medina, Rashid took us through the food market where Craig bought and generously shared some delicious olives. Dave started his dinner shopping and picked up some carrots while Sean and Dan collected bread.
We carried on through the narrow streets where we eventually and shockingly (please insert sarcasm here) ended up at a carpet shop. When getting an inexpensive tour, particularly in the Middle East and North Africa, you know there is a commission-giving entity involved. Not that that is always a bad thing. A few of us left with some pretty sweet souvenirs. Gavin P. was interested in one of the cactus rugs but it proved to be a little out of his price range. However, Jeremy and Sean both walked off with a cashmere and silk blanket. Apparently we all have a lot to learn about haggling from Jeremy who also invested in a jalaba and has been sporting it regularly. Greg also came away with a small rug which he got for a steal. He and Peter will have the best decorated tent out of all of us.
After the carpet shop we moved on to the apothecary and spice shop. There Phil, Mayumi, and Sean all received a shoulder massage from a very sterile looking masseur. Sarah won the title “Hottest Woman” in the room. The color changing lipstick that was applied to each of the girls proved this. As hers was the darkest, she was indisputably the hottest.
We all got a little sniff of black menthol to clear our sinuses, some rose lotion to moisturize our skin, and a sniff off curry to tempt us. The presenter was a good entertainer. I think a lot of us ,who are savvy travelers, went in with the feeling that we were just trying to be sold something. Granted, we were but it actually turned out to be an enjoyable sales pitch. Quite good fun.
Tonight we’re parked up about 10 miles from Chefchauen. We’re bush camping for the first time. The site is a bit stony but there’s a nice little creek alongside where the fishermen among us have had some success this evening. The pink sunset is fading on the hills to the west and the mountains are disappearing into the darkness on in the east. Daniel H., Dave, and Sean D. are tackling the challenge of being the first in the group to cook over an open fire. The rest of us are sitting around and enjoying the warmth. There’s been a few bottle of wines popped open. The campfire is roaring. It’s a perfect setting for the evening. It’s a perfect time for it all to become real: It’s all happening. It has begun.
From African Trails’ side of things we’d like to thank Mark for a sterling effort over 43 weeks, Rebecca for all the blog and photo updates and all the participants for their photos, general participation and for making a great tour, great. Thanks again. Stay tuned for the November Trans Blog with Gavin and Summer. http://www.hostelsworld.com Book hostels and hotels online
Check out all the photos of this trip on our Facebook page ” AfricanTrailsOverlands and Safaris” as we have been having problems with the photos.
WEEK 43
Our last country for the trip and it’s a whirlwind of activity. First stop is Goreme and the famed fairy chimneys and underground cities of Cappadocia. Formed when Mt Erciyes erupted, Cappadocia is like something from another world with its honeycomb cliffs, and columns, pyramids and mushrooms of rock (and a few other interesting shapes which can be left to the imagination!). The town itself has an old world charm and we soon familiarize ourselves with the local markets, eateries and of course the bars. At the Cave Bar the guys meet Ed from Georgia which is a nice reminder of home for Ches, and soon the southern accents are flying! (Thanks again Ed for your hospitality in Goreme). Downtown, Mike and Rebecca climb hillside to view the GoremeOpenAirMuseum from above, with Jose and Carrie stopping in to see the medieval frescoes of the monastic churches.
As the next day dawns Dean, Ches, Vicki and Rebecca are up with the sun and up in the air floating above Cappadocia in a hot air balloon. The views are breathtaking, and we drift above the pink-hued RoseValley and then across the aptly names LoveValley (we’ll let the pictures speak for themselves!). We climb to 400m and then drop down to navigate a cliff-face and through some trees before a relatively bump-free landing and some celebratory champagne. It’s an indescribable experience and one definitely worth doing.
Back on terra firma and the group heads off on tour. We start at the Goreme Panorama, with stunning views of the entire landscape. Then it’s underground to Derinkuyu, the largest underground city in Cappadocia, which covers 8 floors and contains a myriad of tunnels, shafts and rooms cut into the rock. We then hike the IlharaValley, a canyon full of rock-cut churches dating, stopping for lunch river-side and then on to the Selime Monastery, the hive-like caves featured in Star Wars. We stop to view the vista and the birds of PigeonValley before finishing with a demonstration of onyx jewelry making.
After a full-on day of sight-seeing it’s a quiet night, but we are all excited by a surprise visit from Joost who is in Turkey as part of another whirlwind world tour.
Leaving Goreme and it’s a long drive day to Olympos, famed for its ancient ruins, Chimaera (eternal flame) and tree-house lifestyle. Also known for its party atmosphere we make the most of the cold beers and the dance floors of the local bars. Waking with a few sore heads amongst us, Jose, Carrie, Shadow, Sue and Rebecca take a dip in the Med via the ancient ruins of Olympos. Mike, Dean and Willy are on the water early, sea-kayaking through caves and under bridges to see the underwater ruins, with Dean and Mike finishing the day rock-climbing. Ches and Mark also take to the sea and head out for a day of fishing.
From Olympos the next stop is Oludeniz with its lagoon perched right beside the national park. One of the hot tourist spots of the Med, we make the most of the turquoise waters by taking in a boat cruise stopping at the Blue Cave (where Mike earns himself a free beer by taking a leap of faith off the cliffs above), Butterfly Valley and St Nicholas Island, and taking frequent dips in the crystal clear water. A great day is had by all and we finish with a group dinner to farewell Sue, who heads back home to the UK.
Being the tourist spot that it is, Oludinez also gives us the opportunity to catch up on some much needed chores. While the lads watch the Aussies beat South Africa in the rugby, Vicki, Ches, Carrie and Rebecca discover the wonders of a Turkish bath (and after nearly 10 months on the road, being scrubbed from head to toe is truly welcome!), massage and a long-needed pedicure.
Clean and shiny we leave Oludinez for Selcuk and the ruins of Ephesus. On route we stop to see the white ledges of Pamukkale, the travertine pools which hang over the ledges of the plateau. It’s slippery work wading through the pools but we are in awe of the stunning site of this natural wonder. From Pamakkule it’s onwards to Selcuk, the gateway to Ephesus. The ruins of Ephesus are renowned as the best-preserved classical city in the eastern Mediterranean, and we find the Library of Celsus with its sheer size and detail the most impressive, while the Roman men’s toilets provide the best photo opportunities.
We leave Selcuk and head up the AegeanCoast towards the GallipoliPeninsula. We do a final ferry crossing from Canakkale to Eceabat, leaving Asia behind and crossing back into Europe. Eceabat is a small waterfront town, but an ideal base to visit the battlefields of Gallipoli. Gallipoli is the backbone of the Anzac legend and touring the site is a wealth of information on the history of the Allied campaign to knock Turkey out of WW1 and open a route to Russia. We visit the war cemeteries and pay our respects to the hundreds of young men (the youngest only 14) who lost their lives at this site. We stop at Lone Pine, The Sphinx and the Nek, before walking past the last of the sunken trenches where the Allies and the Turks battled each other, in some places from a distance no greater than 8 metres apart. It is a sobering experience and we leave the site with greater understanding and regard.
From Eceabat we are on the final leg through to Istanbul. Although flooding has closed some of the roads we get a drive-by tour of the city as we find a spot to park up the truck.
After 43 weeks, 301 days, over 43,000 kilometres, 29 countries, 29 passengers, 9 flat tyres, 1 prop shaft, frequent flip-flop blow outs, too many beers (and toilet stops) to count, and endless fun and adventure we arrive at our final destination, Istanbul.
Our heartfelt thanks and indescribable appreciation to Mark “The Weasel” Pearce, our driver, tour guide, super-mechanic, life-saver, spaghetti chef extraordinaire, RAS founding member (not to mention the Roxette singing and dancing) and much more, who took us all the way from Spain to Istanbul!
Check out all the photos of this trip on our Facebook page ” AfricanTrailsOverlands and Safaris” as we have been having problems with the photos.
 WEEK 42
Crossing late in the day, we bush camp amongst a grove of olive trees and spend our first day in Syria at the historical site of Bosra. Once the capital of the Roman province of Arabia the centerpiece of the city is the citadel built in the 2nd century AD. HHHHousing a 15,000-seat theatre and boasting amazing acoustics there were a few amongst us fancying themselves as performers and using the stage for our own theatrics. The theatre itself is surrounded by ruins and we wander through Roman baths, a monastery and a cathedral, monumental gates and colonnades, amazed that many of the structures have been adapted by the local population who now call these ruins home.
Leaving Bosra we drive to Damascus, the capital of Syria and a city of legend. Damascus thought to be the world’s oldest continually inhabited city holds its meaning in the historical significance of the OldCity. Barricaded by huge stone walls, it’s a rabbit warren of alleyways comprised largely of the stalls that make up the Souq al-Hamidiyya, the main market in Damascus. Selling everything known to the imagination one of the souq’s unique features is the bullet-ridden roof, a remnant of machine gun fire from French planes during the 1925 nationalist rebellion.
The souq opens out to a courtyard where we get our first glimpse of the Umayyad Mosque, one of the holiest mosques in the world for Muslims. Entering the mosque (appropriately ticketed and robed) we take in the intricate detail of the golden mosaics that decorate the main entrance. The courtyard spreads out to reveal a wood-domed fountain, and the Dome of the Treasury topped by three minarets. As the call to prayer sounds, we enter the prayer hall and take in the Dome of the Eagle which decorates the centre of the hall ceiling, as well as the translucent green structure, the shrine of John the Baptist which is said to house his head.
Leaving the mosque we are soon lost in the myriad of streets that make up the souq. We stop for an early dinner (to beat the Ramadan rush) and window shop our way out again, sampling some of the goodies from the numerous sweet shops for which Syria is famed. Willy, Sue, Ches, Willy and Dean make the most of a night on the town and do the rounds of the local hot spots drinking tea and smoking nargileh (the traditional water-pipe, also known as sheesha) amongst the locals.
We have a couple of extra days holed up in Damascus waiting on some repairs to the truck, so it’s back into town for more exploration. Willy, Shadow and Sue wander the Christian Quarter and dine on fatoosh, hummus and baba ghanooj. Mike, Vicki and Rebecca stumble upon the NationalMuseum with its impressive collection of antiquities dotting the garden and stop to see the skill of Syria’s artists at Handicrafts Lane.
With the truck back in action we leave Damascus and drive through to Palmyra. These ancient ruins are the remains of one of the most important links on the old Silk Route, and the entrance to the site is flanked by a monumental arch that serves as the gateway to the city. Walking down the colonnaded street the extensive restoration of the site lets you imagine how magnificent the city was in its day. High on the hill overlooking the site we take in Qala’ at ibn Maan (the ArabCastle) and then wander amongst the numerous temples on site.
From Palmyra we head west and on to Crac des Chevaliers, described as the finest castle in the world. World-heritage listed, the castle was built in 1301 and expanded by the Crusader knights into its current form which remains very well preserved. The castle is surrounded by a moat, and has 13 towers on the outside wall, with rooms on the inside of every conceivable description including a huge room with the sole purpose of being the oven. We camp overnight and wake up to the site of the castle shrouded in mist – truly the stuff of fairytales.
The next morning is a fly-by of Aleppo, a sprawling city and one of Syria’s largest. From the citadel we get a commanding view of the city, and its numerous mosques and souqs of which we wander and take in the ambiance of Syria’s markets for the last time. We head to the border and have our final border crossing for the trip into Turkey.
Check out all the photos of this trip on our Facebook page ” African Trails Overlands and Safaris” as we have been having problems with the photos.
WEEK 41
We leave the chilled out atmosphere behind, and head to the port for our ferry crossing to Jordan. Taking a bit of Dahab with us, we smuggle out a new passenger Vicki, who decides to temporarily leave the dive life behind and join us on our final leg to Istanbul.
After our previous ferry crossing we know what to expect, and are prepared for a long day. After battling the locals through customs, we are herded into the passenger terminal where we spend the better part of the day before queuing again to board the ferry. Onboard at last we have a couple more hours of delay and then we are underway and sailing the Gulf of Aqaba on our way to Jordan. The ferry is relatively uneventful and after arriving in Jordan we do the obligatory customs clearance for ourselves and Ruby, and finally arrive at camp around 3:30 in the morning.
Our first day in Jordan dawns and we wake to the sun rising over the sea. Our first task is to pack up our home of the last 9 or so months and swap to a new truck. We are a little nostalgic having been through 40 weeks, and 24 countries with Ruby so we are a little sad to say goodbye. We find our feet on the new truck and adjust to a new interior layout, and make our way into town for supplies and a stroll along the corniche.
Leaving Aqaba we drive towards Wadi Rum, famed for the Seven Pillars of Wisdom written about by TE Lawrence in the book of the same name (and on which the film “Lawrence of Arabia” was based). We arrive the next morning to view the Seven Pillars of Wisdom, with Mike and Vicki setting off on a 3 hour hike around its base and take in the statue and inscriptions dedicated to Lawrence himself. Those not up for the hike head to Rum Village with Shadow, Ches and Rebecca venturing to Lawrence’s Spring by camel, ably assisted by Dean and Willy who walk and help maintain camel control, while Sue takes some time out to explore the sandstone ruins of the Nabataean temple.
We leave Wadi Rum and head to Wadi Musa (Moses’ Valley), the village surrounding the famed red-rose city of Petra. Arriving in time to take in Petra by Night, we get our first glimpse of this ancient site, lit up by 1500 candles. As we walk through the Siq we can only imagine what is in store for us the next day when we can view the site in its full glory.
We arrive at Petra early to avoid the crowds and are rewarded by an almost solitary walk through the Siq, the 1.2km canyon-like cleft cut into the rock that is the entrance to the main site (recognizable from the movie Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade). After surviving Dean’s attempts at filming our own “Indy” movie, we emerge from the Siq to the stunning sight of Al-Khazneh, better known as the Treasury. This scale of this massive structure, carved out of sandstone to serve as a tomb, is amazing and it is easy to see why this is known as Petra’s most impressive structure.
From the Treasury we move through the Outer Siq and the Street of Facades for a view of the 7000-seat theatre. We climb to the High Place of Sacrifice and take in the vista of the site before descending past the Lion monument, as well as the Garden Complex and the Roman Soldiers’ tomb. We pass through the Colonnade Street, stopping for a lunch break before tackling Ad-Deir, the monastery. With 800 steps leading to the top, the monastery was originally built around 86 BC as a tomb, and is well worth the climb. On the descent, Dean and Shadow embrace the moment with new Lawrence of Arabia head-dresses in honour of reaching the monastery. We pass through the Royal Tombs, and past the Palace Tombs and magnificent Urn tomb, before heading back past the theatre and retracing our steps through the Siq. After a day of walking, we reward ourselves with a cold one at the Cave Bar, built within a 2000-year old Nabataean tomb.
We take in the sunset over Wadi Musa, and are rejoined by Mike, who we lost early on in the day and discover has managed to cover the whole site of Petra in one day including SnakeMonument, the Lion Tomb and CrusaderCastle (all at opposite ends of the site) as well as all the other attractions in-between.
The next day we leave Wadi Musa and drive along the Desert Highway and take in the amazing desert-scape. This is also the first day of Ramadan, the fasting period for Muslims, so we are conscious of eating and drinking outside the truck. We turn off the Desert Highway and are soon driving along the Dead Sea coast. As the lowest point of earth, the temperature can soon be felt so we stop off to test our buoyancy in the Dead Sea. The salinity does not let us down and we are soon attempting to “swim” atop the sea, with a lot of laughter along the way. We compare maneuvers, with Mark perfecting the skydive, and Ches and Sue mastering the can-can. After rinsing off the salt (very thoroughly) we camp on the shores and wake to another gorgeous sunrise.
We drive through the capital, Amman. Not known for its historical sites, we adapt quickly back into modernization with shopping and a trip to the cinema. It’s only a short stop and we are soon on our way again, and crossing the border to Syria.
Check out all the photos of this trip on our Facebook page ” African Trails Overlands and Safaris” as we have been having problems with the photos.
WEEK 39
We drive into downtown Cairo and its evident instantly that we have hit the city – people, noise and traffic everywhere. As we drive through the city, we get our first glimpse of the Pyramids of Giza – an incredible sight, set against the backdrop of this modern city.
The next morning we are up early and off the see the only remaining Wonder of the Ancient World – the Pyramids of Giza. Looking down at the site from the Giza plateau you get an incredible view of the entire site, with a total of 9 pyramids and the sphinx on the eastern edge of the plateau. Rachel and Rebecca also discover you also get another perspective of pyramids if you set out to see the site on the back of a camel.
We start with Khufu’s pyramid, best known as the Great Pyramid, which is the largest of all three standing at over 145 metres high. From a distance the blocks that make up the pyramids look like Lego bricks, but up close the enormity of them overwhelm and climbing part of the structure cannot be resisted by Willy, Dean, Chad, Jose and Carrie (a once in a lifetime photo opportunity!). The second pyramid, which actually appears taller as it stands on a higher part of the plateau, is dedicated to the son of Khufu, Khafre. The second pyramid can be distinguished, not only by its size but by the limestone casing that adorns the top of the structure. The third pyramid and the smallest on site is that of Menakaure, the grandson of Khufu, and measures only 62 metres. We also visit the interior of the Great Pyramid and the Pyramid of Khafre, and take in the burial chambers built within these great structures.
The other highlight of the plateau is that of the Sphinx, known in Arabic as the Father of Terror. Smaller than you would expect, but no less impressive, the Sphinx is carved entirely from one huge piece of limestone left over from the building of the Great Pyramid. Although the Sphinx is regarded as the guardian of hidden knowledge, no secrets were revealed to us, but Dean, Carrie, Ches and Dean head off that night for the sound and light show, and learn more about the history of the pyramids, as well as seeing them illuminated in an array of colours.
Ches and Chad leave us in Giza and head to Siwa, the most remote of Egypt’s oases. With days filled with hot and cold water springs, relaxing in palm-lined groves, sand-boarding the dunes, and dining with the Bedouins. At night they dance at the full moon party and sleep under a sky full of stars. Â
The rest of the group leaves Giza for downtown Cairo. With many attractions right on our doorstep we hit the Egyptian Museum containing over 100,000 relics from Egypt’s history, including the galleries of Tutankhamen which include his solid gold death mask, and his sarcophagus, as well as the Royal Mummy room which houses the bodies of some of Egypt’s most revered kings and queens. The Cairo skyline swells with numerous citadels and mosques, and the streets are clogged with shops and stalls selling more souvenirs. Rachel and Sue even brave the maze of streets and alleyways that make up the Khan Al-Khalili Bazaar, Cairo’s famous marketplace since the 14th century, and come away unscathed and with a few bargains in hand.
We are also joined by some fresh faces – Mike and Mike (also known as Shadow) from the other overland truck jump on board for the final leg to Istanbul. Although on limited time having joined us late into our time in Cairo, they hit the pyramids, the zoo and other of Cairo’s main attractions getting them up to speed and ready to hit Alexandria with us the next day.
With Cairo covered, we head east to the Sinai Peninsula, travelling under the Suez Canal. We arrive at the base of Mount Sinai, famed as the place where Moses received the Ten Commandments. Mike and Chad are eager to make a head start and carve their own path up the mountain. Ches and Dean follow soon after, but take the better-marked pathway up the Steps of Repentance, with Willy, Jose and Carrie following in their footsteps at 3am the next morning. At 2285 metres, the group arrives at the summit to take the sunrise and see the amazing vista over the surrounding peaks.
They arrive back in time for a well-deserved breakfast and rest, and Sue, Mike, Rebecca, Ches and Shadow stop in to visit the monastery of St Katherine, positioned at the base of the mountain. We stop for a photo at the Burning Bush (where Moses purportedly first spoke to God) and then pass through the Sacred Sacristy with its rare religious iconography including a 4th century translation of the bible. We also take in the Church of Transfiguration, which with its chandelier-covered ceiling and heavily adorned walls, resemble something like the Great Hall in Harry Potter.
From Mount Sinai we depart for Dahab, where the desert meets the waters of the Red Sea. Dahab is known for having a chilled-out atmosphere, and after less than 24 hours here, we fit right in. We plonk ourselves in Masbat amidst the restaurants, cafes, markets and the sea and make ourselves right at home with frequent seaside sheeshas, cold beers and a couple of nights on the town.
With diving as the lifeblood of tourism in Dahab, Mike jumps in early and is off to do his Advanced course on the first day, and Mark is not far behind him undertaking his Rescue Divers course. Ches and Mike start their diving careers during our stay with an Open Water Course, and Dean and Sue get wet at the Blue Hole. Even Carrie is bitten by the diving bug, and squeezes in an Introductory dive. For the rest of us, there is snorkeling in DahabBay and at the Blue Hole, both locations offering up an array of underwater life.
We also say some more goodbyes – Chad and Rachel (both of whom despite being only booked to Cairo couldn’t bear to leave us just yet) tagged along for an extra day or two to Dahab and have now left us to return to the real world.
Check out all the photos of this trip on our Facebook page ” African Trails Overlands and Safaris”
SPECIAL THANK YOU
A big thank you to the Starbucks team (where Carrie used to work) who have been following our adventures in Africa and shown their support by sending us loads of supplies of tea and coffee to keep us awake and alert on the most recent leg of our journey. Thanks again for the goodies!
WEEK 37 (CONTINUED)
We cross from Sudan to Egypt via LakeNasser on the overnight passenger ferry. Some of the group upgrade to cabins and are thankful for the air-con, whilst Ches, Carrie, Jose and Mark brave sleeping on the deck with the locals. Arriving in Egyptian waters, we get a great view of the sunset and as darkness falls we get our first glimpse of the illuminated statues of the gods that guard the Great Temple of Abu Simbel.
Arriving in Aswan the next morning we are ready to tackle Egypt head on, but we have to go through the departure processes first. After having our temperatures taken, clearing customs and then waiting for most of the cargo to be offloaded over our heads, we are finally allowed to disembark and officially arrive in Egypt. Unfortunately, we are without Ruby who still needs a couple more days to clear customs, so we are off in search of a place to stay. We find a hotel and settle in – with views overlooking the Nile and a rooftop pool, as well as the local markets (and McDonalds) at our doorstep, we find ourselves feeling more like tourists than overlanders but no one is complaining!
We depart at 3am the next morning in convoy to Abu Simbel to visit the enormous temples built by Ramses II. The temples were originally carved into the mountainside that now resides underneath LakeNasser. The GreatTemple, flanked by four 65-foot tall gods that guard the entrance, is dedicated to the gods Ra, Amun, Ptah and Ramses II in his godlike form. We are amazed at the sheer size of the temple, with its halls and sanctuaries, and get our first look at true Egyptian hieroglyphics depicting significant moments in the rule of Ramses II. The smaller temple at Abu Simbel is no less impressive, and was built as a dedication to Queen Nefertari, the wife and chief Queen of Ramses II. At the front of this temple six rock-cut statues of Ramses II and Queen Nefertari are prominent, surrounded by some of their children. The temple, dedicated to Hathor (the goddess of love, beauty, music, and dancing) also shows many decorations of the royal couple making offerings to the gods.
Back in Aswan, we make the most of our surroundings and take advantage of the pool and McDonald’s air conditioning to beat the heat. We get down to some serious negotiations at the local markets, and travelling in style in a caleche (a horse-drawn carriage, which requires some strong negotiation skills to haggle a good price).
Mark heads off to retrieve Ruby from customs – a process which takes the better part of the day, but finally we get the all-clear and armed with new Egyptian number plates we are ready to leave for Luxor.
 Ches, Sue, Dean, Willy and Chad depart on a 2-day felucca trip up the Nile. With lots of lying around and drifting on the waters it’s a relaxing way to travel. They stop at Kom Ombo to see the Temple of Sobek and Haroeris, dedicated to the crocodile god and falcon-headed sky god. The temple is remarkable for its duplication – it has two of everything allowing priests to make simultaneous dedications to its two gods. Leaving Kom Ombo they head for Edfu and Temple of Horus, famed for being the most completely preserved temple in Egypt. With most of the temple intact, including one of the remaining few that still has a roof, the Temple of Horus provides a good perspective of how the actual structures appeared in their time.
WEEK 38
Our next stop is Luxor, and we are ready to tackle one of Egypt’s most popular tourist destinations. Divided by the Nile into the East and West Banks, Luxor is teeming with historic monuments, combined into a modern town. We tackle the East Bank first and head to the Temples of Karnak, dedicated to the Theban gods and Egypt’s pharaohs. Passing through the avenue of ram-headed sphinxes we pass through the complexes of Amun-Ra, Mut and Montu. The site is a myriad of pylons, obelisks, sanctuaries and temples, intricately carved with hieroglyphics, some with the original colours remaining.
We pass the Temple of Luxor, and take in more amazing ruins. With pylons, columns and chapels, the temple is similar to those of Karnak but on a smaller scale, but significant for the Christian paintings in the antechamber which demonstrate the conversion of one of the chapels to a Christian church.
Jose, Carrie, Sue and Ches get some more history at the LuxorMuseum, with the statue of Thumose III and the relics of Tutankhamun’s reign, including a golden statue, carriage and sarcophagus top the list of must-see’s.
Crossing the Nile, we hit the West Bank. Know as the City of the Dead, the West Bank is home to temples and tombs honouring the pharaohs, queens, noblemen, artisans and workmen of Thebes. We start with the Valley of the Kings, and Willy, Dean, Chad, Mark and Ches take a unique approach to travel by jumping on some donkeys. The rest of the group travel by more traditional means, stopping off at the Colossi of Memnon to take in the 18m statues that are all that remain of the temple built by Amenhotep III.
Arriving unscathed if not saddle sore, we negotiate our way around the site which contains 62 tombs. Most can be viewed from outside, but after careful selection we pass through the tombs of Thutmose III, one of the great warrior kings of Egypt, Ramesses II and IV, Tausert and Sethnakht, the only Queens to be buried in the Valley of the Kings), and the infamous Tutankhamun. Whilst much smaller than the other burial tombs, the tomb of King Tut contains his unwrapped remains, and the decorated burial chamber containing one of the gilded coffins where the mummy originally rested.
Leaving the Valley of the Kings, Jose, Carrie, Sue and Ches make their way for some more tomb-raiding at the Valley of the Nobles. This site containing more than 1000 tombs is where nobles, priests and other officials are buried, and is renowned for its funerary scenes as well as depictions of daily life. The Valley of the Nobles is also notable for the great artistry and craftsmanship of its painting and other artworks that adorn the tombs. They also stop at the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut (Deir al-Bahri) which, built into its surroundings is an amazing piece of architecture noted for its modern look, and dedicated to Hatshepsut, the most important women to rule over Egypt as a pharaoh. Chad and Dean decide that they need some exercise and view the Valley of the Nobles using peddle-power.
With the historic sites of Luxor ticked off, we traipse the local souk for bargains with jewelry in the form of cartouches, rings and bracelets engraved with hieroglyphics, cushion covers, chess sets and leather goods topping the list of our haul. We also take time-out from the heat and make the most of the campsite with frequent dips in the pool, movie nights and games of giant chess.
We leave Luxor and drive up the Red Sea Coast, stopping at Safaga for a dip and our final bush camp before arriving in Egypt’s capital, Cairo.
Check out all the photos of this trip on our Facebook page ” African Trails Overlands and Safaris” as we have been having problems with the photo sizes
WEEK 36
Crossing the border into Sudan we are back in the heat with the temperature reaching over 40 degrees every day. We celebrate Sue’s birthday on our first night in the desert, with home-made custard (in lieu of cake) and gifts of coffee and a new plunger to see her through to the end of the trip.
We drive through to Khartoum the next day and meet with Midhat Mahir, who comes from the nicest, most welcoming family in the whole of Africa. Midhat not only proves to be a godsend in helping us navigate our way through the registrations and permits we need for Sudan, but he becomes our official translator, tour guide and information source for everything we need to know about Khartoum. Midhat also sets us up to meet with his brother when we arrive in Wadi Halfa, and we would like to thank him for his time, friendship and invaluable assistance during our stay in Khartoum.Â
Visiting the sites in Khartoum, we stop at the NationalMuseum which reveals the many well-preserved treasures of Sudan, including pottery, carvings and many Egyptian-influenced artifacts. The museum also features many religious frescoes and murals, depicting the influence of Christianity on Sudanese life.
We stop to see the other significant attraction in Khartoum - the Confluence of the Nile, where the Blue Nile and the White Nile meet. With good rains it is said you can see where the two rivers meet – unfortunately we were not so lucky but can at least say we have been to see where they merge!
Leaving Khartoum, we have early starts and hot, dusty drive days, trying to avoid the hottest part of the day wherever possible. We take in the sights along the way, stopping at the pyramids of the Royal Cemetery of Meroe, with Dean and Willy exhibiting their camel-riding skills across the dunes.
We stop and meet the locals in Atbara and Karima, where the warmth and friendliness of the Sudanese is evident – everyone is extremely welcoming and interested in our journey through their country.
We stop at Jebel Barkal, the “holy” mountain, visiting more pyramids and the Temple of Mut, dedicated to the Egyptian sky goddess. We also celebrate Rebecca’s 35th birthday with some creative gifts including a very special doll, autographed (and graffiti-decorated) by the group, which seems to fascinate a number of the locals.
WEEK 37
We have more drive days, following the Nile through to Wadi Halfa. The palm trees along the river offer a respite from the heat of the day, and we stop most on most afternoons as it is too hot to drive.
 Arriving in Wadi Halfa we are met by Mazar Mahir (Midhat’s brother) who takes us under his wing, and becomes our family in Wadi Halfa. We are invited to stay with his family, where we are treated to the most amazing kindness and generosity we have experienced in all our travels in Africa.
 We are exceptionally lucky to have experienced the hospitality of Mazar, his mother and sisters and the extended family who shared their home and their hearts with us. We were hosted in Mazar’s home, camping in the family compound, where we were spoilt by Yeoman’s (Mazar’s mother) cooking including falafels, pizza and numerous cups of tea and coffee.
We attended the week-long wedding celebrations of one of Mazar’s close friends, where the ladies were kitted out in traditional Nubian dresses and the men wore their newly purchased jaballeyahs. We were taught how to dance in true Nubian style, which we got the opportunity to display at the wedding reception and then got to join the bride and groom the next day for a coffee ceremony which extended to food, drink, and more dancing, as well as henna tattooing, body scrubs and perfume spraying (to make the ladies more eligible so we can find ourselves a husband!)
 Mazar even went out of his way for us using his business “Mashansharti” to create new stickers for the truck so that we now have “Ruby” in Arabic adorning the front grill.
We cannot thank Mazar and his family enough for the wonderful experience that they have given us during our stay in Sudan – words cannot describe our appreciation of their generosity and hospitality, and we are grateful to them for sharing their lives, friends and family with us during our time with them.
After a wonderful time in Wadi Halfa the truck heads off on the ferry, and following a sad farewell to Mazar and his family, we follow the next day on the passenger ferry crossing LakeNasser and on our way to Egypt.
