Uganda continued and into Kenya

Posted by Chris Tamlin

The drive to Kampala was broken up by a stop at the equator. Jaap was convinced (due to Dutch tv) that water did not spin in opposite directions when draining, either side of the equator. Now convinced, we continued. The streets of the city were surprisingly in good condition. Perhaps the visit of the Queen in November made them tidy the place up a bit. The usual chaos was missing, replaced by order! A planned night on the town turned to nought. Most were not particularly interested, so a visit to a local restaurant and bar was the compromise. Fried chicken and chips were becoming a little tiresome! 

On to Jinja, the source of the Nile, where some white water rafting was enjoyed. Also some local sights were taken in, such as Owen falls dam and the Speke memorial. (Victorian explorer).

  The campsite was beautiful, overlooking the river and the first grade 3 rapid, complete with a 20m bungi tower, strangely no one had a go! Onwards to Kenya, where we stopped at Eldoret at Naiberi river. The next day saw us traversing the Eldama ravine with spectacular views of the rift valley. The road, though, leaves a lot to be desired. More pot holes than tarmac and bone shaking to the max. A night was spent at Kembu campsite in Njoro, before another park. This time it was Nakuru NP, famous for its flamingo population. The park is also home to white rhino and is one of the best places to spot Leopard. Alas, our luck had not improved on that score! Next on the itinerary was Naivasha. Another large rift valley lake, where our camp for two nights was beneath huge Acacia trees right on the lake shore. Hippos visited in the evenings to graze, fortunately there is an electric fence to separate us from them, so they could be viewed in safety.

Whilst in Naivasha, Elsamere (famous from the born free film) was visited, mainly for the sumptuous afternoon tea. Only problem there is the Colobus monkeys, who insist on crashing the party, Denise lost a large slice of cake to one!

  Our last few days were spent visiting the Maasai Mara, where yet more terrible roads were encountered. The game drive itself was very nearly a complete washout. Initially barely anything was spotted. Then a fleeting glimpse of a Serval, some Hartebeest and Giraffe. A close encounter with an Elephant brightened the mood, then we got a tip off about a Lion with a kill.

After around half an hour with the Lion, I heard over another vehicles radio, that 12 more Lions were heading our way, then we saw them.

They came in quite fast and after a greeting with the Lioness with the kill, they proceeded to surround it and demolish it within 40 minutes. Being that close to raw savagery was incredible. I’m sure most ran out of space on their digital cameras!

    An attempt to leave the area via the ‘back’ way nearly got us in trouble. It had been raining on and off and some black cotton soil appeared. This stuff is bad news, so after sliding around a bit, we turned around and left via the normal exit.

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Zanzibar, Serengeti, Gorillas and Lake Bunyonyi

Posted by Chris Tamlin

A relaxed time was had by all on Zanzibar. The tight and confusing streets of Stone Town, and the crystal clear waters of the northern beaches, only tempered by the rough seas on the return ferry journey. A few showed little sea experience and fed the fish!

  A day and a half of driving, passing fields of sisal and Mt Kilimanjaro – which as per usual, was hiding behind a veil of cloud – we arrived in Arusha, the safari capital of Tanzania and the gateway to the Serengeti.  

On to the endless plains –which in Maasai is Serenget, and a game drive on the way to the camp site within the park. The great migration north is due around this time of the year, but the vast herds were not quite so vast. Nonetheless loads of Zebra and Wildebeest were spotted, along with Elephant, Lion, Cheetah and other plains game. The campsite proved a wee bit spooky with Hyaena prowling the outskirts and making a racket with their blood curdling howls.

Another game drive with more of the same, and then on to the rim of the Ngororongoro crater. This campsite provided spectacular views of the some 42km square crater. Formed millennia ago when a now extinct volcano blew its top. It provides a microcosm of life, with most game being present, and most there choosing not to tackle the relatively steep sides, and stay instead.

  A hippo pool, more Lions, Elephants, Giraffe amongst others but the Leopard still eludes us. So after a morning in the crater it was time to head back to Arusha. 

This time it was decided to do a circumnavigation of Lake Victoria, rather than back track from Uganda to Nairobi. So from Arusha we headed west towards Singida. The first bush camp was a rather innocuous looking clearing on the lip of a valley. Spectacular views followed by a game of cricket with some locals. Surely they had no idea, but picked it up rather quickly!

  The next day was a rather confusing affair. Stopping in the town of Nzega for a lunch and shop stop, we followed the signs towards Kahama. What should be tarmac was a narrow graded dirt road! Thinking a wrong or missed turn somewhere, we were only satisfied that it was the correct road when some transport trucks were spotted heading the opposite direction. 

That evening we found a fantastic bush camp, which proved to be the last one for this journey. A small celebration was in order so with some cold beers acquired in Kahama, and some rather out of date cyalume light sticks we attempted a party. All to no avail really as most went to bed early!

 The next day we crossed into Rwanda, complete with a rather confused border official. We are still in Africa if anyone has forgotten!The drive towards Kigali was spectacular, if slow going. Only 250km, but it took all day due to narrow, windy and hilly roads. Not helped at all by slow moving, overloaded transport trucks. Arriving around 4.30pm, we attempted to find the Catholic mission. No go, so we ended up getting a room at a hotel in town. The truck had to park out front, luckily off the road, where we cooked dinner to a very amused audience. I’m sure that is not a common site, and we felt like gypsies, but all done in good humour. The next morning was spent at the Genocide memorial. A very sombre crew returned to the truck. I believe it is best visited in person, rather than be described.The afternoon was spent traversing the 90km to Ruhengheri. More hilly, windy terrain meant another 3 hours travel. This time we did find the mission, and as dorms were the same price as camping, guess what we did! All getting a bit soft now!

The following day all were collected and driven to the headquarters for a briefing before the Gorilla trek. Then a few hours traipsing through nettles and thick bamboo before being confronted by the spectacular sight of a family group. As you are only allowed one hour with the animals, loads of photos were taken, then it is time to settle in and enjoy.

 All too quickly the hour is up and sadly it was time to depart. All were on a high upon return to the mission, so much so that all bar Chris…went to bed! Too much inactivity of late and the cherubs were all tuckered out! The next day we crossed into Uganda, and the bad roads were back. The tarmac literally stopped at the border. The Ugandan side being an eroded dirt track. Another 90km of spectacular hills and mountain passes saw us arrive in Kabale, where we stocked up for two nights at Lake Bunyonyi (place of many little birds, in the local language). The lake is of undetermined depth, some believe up to 900m. A lovely place for two nights relaxation, even though the weather was quite foul.   Next is Kampala and the source of the Nile at Jinja.

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Zambia, Malawi, Tanzania and Zanzibar

Posted by Chris Tamlin

The road to South Luangwa was actually much better than expected, for the first 50kms anyway. After that it was a corrugated mess. Still, it only took three hours to cover the 120kms. Arriving around lunch time we set up camp, organised some game drives and chilled out by the river for the afternoon.

The morning game drive was incredible. Loads of Lion, Elephants, Impala, Hippos and the usual suspects, but unbelievably Wild Dog were spotted. Initially seen chasing Impala, then lost, they were literally stumbled across, and a few minutes were spent in their midst.

The evening drive was just as good with sightings of Large Spotted Genet; White tailed Mongoose, and my highlight, an Elephant Shrew. Still the Leopards elude us! All are in agreement that South Luangwa has been the best game park so far.

  Another early start saw us back on the road to Chipata. Strangely enough the road had not improved over the last two days! A breakfast stop overlooking the Luangwa valley was spectacular. Continuing on we came to the border with Malawi, and fairly quickly we completed formalities, before moving on to Lilongwe, the capital.  With some shopping done and diesel in the tanks we moved on through some spectacular scenery, literally descending into the rift valley towards Lake Malawi. Our first night in the country was spent at Senga Bay, at the southern end of the lake. After a bout of supermarkets, it was great to throw oneself back into the colour and bustle of local village markets again. Salima has a rather good one and we stocked up for a few days at Kande Beach, a few hundred kms north.   Kande is a great place to chill out and do very little. White sandy beaches and the freshwater of the lake is very invigorating. Originally only two nights were planned, but due to persistent calls we stayed four! The local village was also often visited, including another football match, which we lost 5 – 3. That was another reason to stay, as we were rather stiff and sore afterwards! One evening we were invited to have dinner at the chiefs house, so with our plates, cutlery and cups in hand, off we went. A pleasant evening sampling local food, dancing and playing with the children was had. Reluctantly we left, heading towards Tanzania. Due to our extra days at Kande we had a bit of time to make up, so two days of solid driving was ahead of us. The first day saw us cross the border, and then ascending the escarpment we had spectacular views of the valley and Lake Malawi. Quite rare, as it is usually hazy, but very clear this time.  After a bush camp, an early start and a very long day, we arrived late into Dar- es -Salaam. Chaos is one way to describe it. The traffic was horrendous, and the roads around the estuary are not much chop either. Very much a relief to stop after two very long days. The next few days are being spent on the spice island of Zanzibar, some 60kms off the coast.

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Okavango Delta, Victoria Falls and The Great North Road

Posted by Chris Tamlin

Arriving in Maun, we firstly had to collect a newcomer, Craig. We then had a huge BBQ followed by a rather riotous party. Steve C was leaving the next day so there was a reasonable excuse!   A 7am pick-up, and an hour and a half drive later, all the kit for two nights in the delta was loaded onto Mokoros (dug out canoes). A leisurely journey followed to the island campsite, through the reeds and winding channels. After setting up camp a game walk was in order. Sightings of Zebra, Giraffe and Elephants on foot was quite exhilarating, no Lions or Leopard were spotted (lucky or not depending upon how you see it) but tracks were seen.

Back at camp a relaxed evening was had around the fire.

A morning game walk, then a chance to try out poling the Mokoros. Craig put in a shocker and had to be rescued, let’s just leave it to the experts! Late afternoon was perfect for a sunset cruise and some close encounters with Hippos; one of the guides was a bit nervy and kept well away!

 The following morning, after yet another walk, everything was packed up and the journey back was just as thrilling, if a little sombre at the thought of leaving the delta.   

A long drive to Kasane saw us taking in an afternoon/evening game cruise on the Chobe River. Elephants abound, Greater Kudu, loads of bird life and a brilliant sunset. Yet another tough day in Africa! Another early start and another game drive, this time in Chobe NP. A good place for Leopard spotting, but alas they managed to elude even the best eyes. Yet again amazing nonetheless.

 That afternoon we crossed the Zambezi into Zambia. A ferry crossing that can often take some time was completed relatively quickly. We were literally straight on without having to wait, our luck was in! The short drive to Livingstone over we settled into ‘Grubby’s Grotto’ for a few days. 

Due to the height of the river at this time, white water rafting was out. Other activities were on offer and taken up. Some did some scenic helicopter flights over Victoria Falls. The infamous ‘sunset cruise’ (read booze cruise) was enjoyed a little too much! Jackie even tried out the gorge swing, which is a longer free fall than the bungee jump, some 98m!

A rare opportunity presented itself, when we were asked to be ‘actors’ in a promotional video for a game farm. The day was spent at an Eland project and lodge, with food and drinks thrown in. A great day was had by all.  The funniest moment being when the barman became camera shy and poured a beer in one go, spilling it everywhere!

 Leaving Livingstone, we stopped in Lusaka for the night, then continued on to Chipata for a rest before the gruelling road up to South Luangwa NP.

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Namibia and into Botswana

Posted by Chris Tamlin

Next stop was Outjo, where we needed to replenish supplies for the next few days, particularly for our stay in Etosha. We arrived in time to set up camp and get an afternoon game drive in. Quite a few Oryx and Zebra about, then we spotted our first Lion pride. After a long photo session we had to do a bit of a rally drive back and made it through the gate with barely a minute to spare!

     The water hole at Okaukeujo is floodlit; so many hours overnight were spent waiting for signs of life, rewarded handsomely with Rhino coming in for a drink. The next morning we were up early for another drive, unfortunately not much about, so upon return we had a big fry up breakfast to bolster us for the coming day. With camp packed away we again headed out on a long game drive towards the Halali rest camp. More game about this time, with large herds of Zebra, Springbok and Red Hartebeest. No more large cats though, obviously sleeping off a big feed! The heat of the day started to become a bit much, so we retired to Halali and relaxed by the pool. There is also a floodlit waterhole there, so that was visited in the evening. More Rhino, Hyenas and smaller game, but no Leopards. Apparently it is one of the best places to see them, but our luck was out.   

Another morning drive followed, but this time we packed up first. Still no signs of cats or even Elephants. But we did spot a few Leopard Tortoise! Due to the rains, the normally dry pan was a lake, and the Etosha lookout was under water. As you can get out of your vehicle here we did so, albeit 500m from the actual spot. I tried to test the water and nearly lost my flip-flop in the mud! Trying to retrieve it I noticed a movement, there was a juvenile Cobra next to my hand! So a long stick persuaded it to move on before the shoe was rescued!

Tragedy averted we moved on to several other waterholes. This time we saw Zebra drinking and a load of Giraffe. Overall a good time in Etosha, but due to the heavy rains not a great deal about. That’s nature for you; have to sometimes remind oneself that it is not a zoo! Leaving Etosha, we visited Grootfontein for a re-supply, and then headed northwards once again. There was a possibility of visiting a San Bushman village, so after discussions the unanimous decision was to do so. The drive there was relatively easy except for the last 6km, which was a soft sandy track. Stuck only once we arrived to be greeted by the head man. We were then taken on a bush walk and shown medicinal plants, how they set snares, and some branches were collected to make San bows. The rest of the day was spent with the Bushmen and women making bows, jewellery, singing and dancing. The bows were then tested out on a grass Springbok, no great white hunters here I’m afraid!    The village is actually part of the community of Grashoek. It is a ‘living museum’ where the San can maintain their traditions and culture and earn money from the visitors. A fantastic experience was had. For more info on the Ju/’Hoansi – San living museum on the N#a Jaqna conservancy, visit www.lcfn.info    The night was spent camped near the village, and we were visited by the local children. After playing football, giving them piggy backs and general mucking about, they eventually wore us out and we retired relatively early. The following day we made our way to Rundu, for a big stock up. We then had a big drive to the very edge of the Caprivi Strip before turning south. We stayed two nights at Ngepi camp on the banks of the Kavango River.A very relaxed time was had, amongst a majestic setting. The pool is a croc and hippo proof cage in the river, and the ablutions are amazing. All themed, there is the ‘toilet of Eden’, a ‘view with a loo’, and the favoured bathtub overlooking the river, amongst others.  

 Next was the mysterious Tsodilo hills. Revered by the locals they are known as the Mountains of the gods. Lots of ancient rock art amongst “male, female and child” as the three hills are called.  The Okavango Delta is our forthcoming adventure.  

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The continuing adventures in Namibia

Posted by Chris Tamlin

Leaving Sessrium, we continued northwards to the town of Solitaire. Basically a service station and small campsite on a crossroads. There we gorged ourselves on their famous apple pie. With a nice cuppa it made a perfect morning tea break. The landscape continued to awe, and I’m sure a few jaws were constantly on the ground! With the rains comes new life, and the normally dry desert was a sea of green. In many previous visits to Namibia I had never seen it like this, so all new how special it was to be privilege to this spectacle.

  Some incredible mountain passes, and the obligatory photo stop at the Tropic of Capricorn. The sign was ‘vandalised’ by stickers from McGregor and Boorman’s Long Way Down ‘expedition’. We overlanders don’t think much of their ‘heroic’ exploits! And then into the coastal desert before arriving in Swakopmund. A very real oasis next to the sea.    Swakopmund is the adventure capital of Namibia, with a myriad of activities to get into. Paul, Jaap, Steve and Chris did a tandem skydive.  

Some then went on to quad bike through the sand dunes. Three nights in all was spent enjoying the town’s restaurants and quirky German/Afrikaans culture.   A short visit to the Cape Cross seal colony (very smelly) which is home to some 60,000 cape fur seals. I think we only counted half that! Then back into the desert for the spectacular Spitzkoppe. Chris summed it all up in one word, “WOW”, when alighting from the truck.  

Spitzkoppe stands some 1700m high, basically in the middle of nowhere. Its smaller sister is nearby, and the range of colour produced at sunset has to be seen to be believed. It proved to be one of the all time favourite camping spots, right next to a massive boulder. As promised the night sky was crystal clear and star gazing was in order.The morning saw us reluctantly leaving Spitzkoppe, but we still had amazing views as we drove away.   I had been warned that the Omaruru River had widened and lost a lot of its banks due to the heavy rains. Well we certainly found that to be true. What is usually a 12m wide stretch of sand was now a 100m stretch! And all very soft, as another truck had discovered. We had a quick recce and made a plan. Whilst the other truck struggled with logs?!, we got the sand mats out and put our experience to good use. Caterpillering across we eventually caught and overtook the other truck, then with a final surge got across. All to rather longing stares from the other truck! We couldn’t really leave them to it, so we then helped them across. We were rewarded with some cold beers, of course mine had to go in the chilli bin until later. The others drank them, even though it was still only 10 Am!   Later that day the truck started to misbehave again, a power steering hose had ruptured, so after a quick fix we pulled into the town of Khorixas. I had to do some major repair work so we found a campsite with a pool, and I got stuck in. With the truck repaired we had a few quiet ones in the bar whilst attempting to watch champion’s league football on a very bad TV!   For this leg we have a lot of time up our sleeve, so a suggestion was made to visit Ruacana falls, on the Angolan border. Due to the heavy rain the country had been experiencing it should be spectacular. On the way to the falls we came across quite a few chameleons crossing the road, so of course we had to stop and have a chat!  

We arrived early afternoon and were not disappointed. Not as much water as expected, but stunning nonetheless. We also snuck across a hole in the fence and touched Angolan soil. Big raspberries to the Angolans! We don’t need your stinking visas!   We tried a campsite nearby as it claimed to have ‘Hippo pools’, but on enquiry we were told that the Hippos were shot three years ago! So we gave it a miss and went to a local ‘shebeen’ (pub) for a cold one to make a plan. The result was a bush camp on the way back towards Kamanjab.  Next afternoon we arrived at the Ojititongwe Cheetah Park. Started some 12 years ago by the Nel family. They had shot a problem Cheetah on their farm only to discover it had three very young cubs. Mario, the eldest son, hand raised them and the love affair with the animals began. Now they attempt to rescue any problem Cheetahs from farms and keep them in large enclosures on their property. The struggle continues with maintaining fences and obviously feeding the cats, so their main source of money for that is visitors.    We firstly went to the house where three tame Cheetahs live. After an hour or so spent patting and having their rasp like tongues nearly tearing the skin off our hands, we went back to the bar. (All bar proceeds go to the Cheetahs) An hour later we were taken in the back of an open pick up, and driven into the wild enclosure. 19 very wild Cheetahs are kept there. Slowly driving along the cats eventually began to follow. Quite a sight. When enough had gathered the vehicle was stopped and the two lads; James and Marinas, got out and opened up the bin containing the meat. They have to carry long sticks as the cats are quite aggressive. They each get approx 2kg of meat each and it is thrown into the air for them to catch.  You must be very quick to get it on film. When all the cats had been fed, we went back to the bar to babble excitedly about what we had just seen.   So far everyone has enjoyed Namibia immensely. And Etosha is next!  The world is a very good world, but you must seek it; it will not do to neglect it.

Sydney Owenson, Lady Morgan (19^th century)

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Cape Town and Heading North

Posted by Chris Tamlin

The time spent in Cape Town was well used by all. Gary, Jaap, Jackie, Chris, Paul and Steve went cage diving with Great White Sharks. Table Mountain was well visited, as was Kirstenbosch botanical gardens. A car was also hired for a visit to Cape Point National Park. We even became regulars at a local pub. During this time I spent almost every day preparing the replacement truck, unfortunately Easter arrived which halted work for 4 days. As much as Cape Town was enjoyed, everyone’s feet were itching, so when we eventually left after 11 nights, we were very happy to be moving again.  Stellenbosch and the wineries was the first port of call. All went on a tour and enjoyed sampling South African wine, some obviously enjoyed it more than others judging by the state of them at the end of the day! Next stop, Citrusdal. There we visited “The Baths”, which is a beautiful spot. Nestled in a lush valley and almost Romanesque, the top pool is fed by a natural warm spring and the bottom pool is cold, very therapeutic.  A big drive followed to the Namibian border. Huge difference here, quick, painless and free! Not what we have been used to at all. That night we camped on the banks of the Orange River and had our last glimpse of South Africa before continuing northwards.

  Fish River Canyon, reputedly second in size to the Grand Canyon, was a highlight. Ninety kilometres long and 1.5km deep, we obviously didn’t have time to walk along it! You need to give six months notice and produce a doctor’s certificate anyway! A few viewing points were enough to gauge the grand scale of this ancient landscape. The coastal town of Luderitz was next on the agenda. Unfortunately the new truck was misbehaving, so we only made it as far as the town of Aus that night. Famous for being the location of a German POW camp during the First World War, after South African troops overran them in 1916. Next morning we visited the ghost town of Kolmanskop. Originally the homes of diamond mine workers and bosses, the town had everything: baker, butcher, school, hospital, even a casino! All their water had to be shipped from Cape Town! Eventually the local mine ran out and people moved away, the last family to leave went in 1957. The desert then started to take over, and most buildings are up to the ceiling in sand. Luderitz itself was a disappointment, just a port town really, and no one was sorry to leave the next morning. Onwards to Sessrium and the giant sand dunes. We arrived with time to visit the dead valley of Sossusvlei, which is stunningly beautiful. Unusually there was a fair bit of water around due to heavy rains, which made access rather difficult. A good couple of hours were spent exploring the dunes and valleys. We then managed to scramble up ‘dune 45’ for some sunset shots. A fitting reward for a long day.     

The landscape in Namibia is nothing short of stunning, the vastness is breathtaking. Big sky country indeed. A place has almost a shyness of a person, with strangers; and its secret is not to be surprised by too direct interrogation.Arthur Symons (1865-1945) from Cities

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It’s a Vet’s Life - A Chimp Op by Denise Colgrove

Posted by Chris Tamlin

In Nigeria, in the city of Calabar there is a Drill sanctuary, breeding farm and a sanctuary for Chimpanzees.  This is run by an American couple Liza and Peter who have been there for 20 odd years.  They were on an overland safari in a Landrover as tourists and events conspired that they started rescuing Drills and Chimps.  They are from Oregon originally and if you would like to donate to them, as they are supported totally by donation, their email is pandrillus@earthlink.net Pandrillus Foundation PO box  10082 Portland, Oregon 97296  A very worthy cause.  They have done wonders.   Anyhow, while there talking with Liza she found I was a vet and asked if I could do surgery on a chimp.  Well I’ve done so on many animals so a chimp couldn’t be that different and said yes, what?  This Chimp whose name is Seli was captured by the Nigerian army when she was little and her mom was killed, most likely for consumption.  She was kept for a few years til they tired of her and she was brought in a truck many miles, abused and finally put in a crate at the side of the road near Lagos for sale.  Liza heard of Seli and somehow got her brought to their Mountain sanctuary at Afi Mtn.  She was around 11 years old and an escape artist.  If she bred with the Chimps in the Afi Mtn. area she would contaminate the gene pool as she is not from there.  Therefore she needed to be sterilized.    Six wildlife vets had refused to do so as they had never done that on a Chimp.   I said well we also have an Ob gyn in our group Jackie Cartmill from N Ireland.  So I talked with Jackie and we agreed to do it if they had a good anaesthetist. The person who runs the Afi Mtn sanctuary is a Nigerian vet graduate from Nsukka who has been at the Sanctuary for 8 years and is expert at darting and doing anaesthesia along with everything else needed at that place.

I raided the small surgery at Calabar for necessary instruments and paraphernalia and the truck loaded up wood fence posts needed up at Afi and we drove the long trek to Afi.  Next day the truck could only go so far into the reserve so we loaded all supplies into Dr Adi’s pick up and camped near the chimps and surgery there,  I had gone ahead on a scooter holding on for dear life with our precious instruments, and quelling the terror, enjoyed the ride.

The surgery was a palm-roofed, dirt-floored, small building but with a decent light and we had all we needed to do the job.  Next morning, Adi darted Seli and brought her to the surgery.  I got an IV going and we shaved and scrubbed in the usual way. I did the surgery and Jackie located the ovaries and we did a tubal ligation.  Adi did excellent monitoring of anaesthesia, and everything went well.  We cut her nails so she wouldn’t pick out her sutures and she woke uneventfully.  We gals went for a canopy walk after that and then left for further travels.  Further communications are that Seli healed just fine and never bothered her stitches and can now be in a bigger enclosure cause if she escaped no harm would be done.

We have been travelling in Cameroon, Gabon and Congo.  Many very bad roads and some great ones.  Just recently the past few days we have gone about 80 miles per day on tracks one car wide and very rutted.  We are heading for Brazzaville and Kinshasa so we can get our Angolan visa.  It is really as you picture Africa.  Not very developed.  People are wonderful and I enjoy the momentary connection as we wave as we go by the tiny villages.  I especially enjoyed going to the Schweitzer Hospital in Lamborene as I had heard of him all my young life and he was a role model for me.  I was surprised that the young ones on the truck had barely heard of him, but then he died in 1965 and so they were all born after that except for 2.  For you young ones he was a physician musician from Alsace France and a missionary who established this hospital and leper facility back in 1913 and lived his life there doing good works and also travelled widely giving speeches and fund raising.  He won the Nobel Peace Prize.  The hospital still does free service for the most part and is an international centre for research on Malaria.

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Mud glorious Mud, and the search for Angolan Visas……

Posted by Chris Tamlin

The Gabon visas finally came through late afternoon, and we left immediately. Getting out of Yaoundé was a little difficult, but the correct way was found eventually! We continued on to a bush camp just outside Malmayo. The next day we entered the town of Ebolawa, no signs of the deadly virus, thankfully!After a stock up of food and fuel we carried on to the Gabon border and crossed over. The scenery changed yet again to thick rainforest, with relatively good tarmac, and good progress was made, even with the constant police stops that bordered on harassment. A great bush camp was found down a disused logging road, where the night time insect noise was deafening. Into Libreville, for another attempt at Angola Visas. We ended up camping on the beach as the possible places to camp in hotel grounds were far too expensive. Driving up the beach road was quite fun, as it was Sunday, and all the expats were there with their 4wd’s, which they were terrified of getting dirty. We did splash a few to their obvious disgust and our delight!The Angola visa came to nothing – we didn’t even get through the gate! So back on the road again empty handed.  Having to do the road from Libreville to Bifoun twice in two days was heartbreaking. Massive potholes, broken tarmac and very slow going. Consequently we were worn out by late afternoon and that night’s bush camp, just after Paris-Bifoun, was a very welcome sight.  Lambarene is famous for the Albert Schweitzer hospital, so whilst I topped up fuel and others went shopping for the next few days, Denise paid it a visit.The road conditions worsened from here, back to dirt and slow progress.Next day the road was damp and slippery, so even slower progress! As we hadn’t had a decent wash for a while we stopped at a river for a “bath”. After an hour or so we reluctantly continued towards the Congo border. The formalities were dealt with fairly quickly, and they didn’t seem to mind (or notice) that we were entering a day earlier than our visas stated. The road conditions continued to deteriorate, and basically turned into a track with very high grass either side. The landscape resembled “telly tubby land” with grassy hills abound.  We camped at a school next to a police post as it didn’t look like there would be much else on offer. Turned out to be a great evening. The locals challenged us to a game of football, which we lost 6-2, even with Chris’s best efforts, and scoring celebrations, which had them all in stitches! Then the rain came, and boy did it come. What was a dry patch of land became almost a river! Luckily the tarps had gone up in time so we and it seems the whole village, found refuge. For the first time the inside of the truck became our dining room! After the rain (practically all night) the ground was quite soft and we made a bit of a mess of the school grounds on departure! Sorry! The road was now very slippery as the top cm or so was sludge and filled the tyre treads, making steering and traction a very difficult thing. Slowly slowly is the only way to go. The terrain was fairly flat so no worry about going off a cliff or anything. Did manage to drive sideways for a short bit, which had a few in the back a little worried! The road dried off after a few hours and it became much easier. Into Nyanga and customs. Yes, 35kms into Congo before the truck could be stamped in! All formalities finished, we crossed a bridge and promptly got stuck in a ditch! No bother, a bit of digging and a well placed sand mat, and we were out first go. Fairly bad road all day but no more boggings, and we camped on the bank of the Niari River, after crossing the “Pont du Niari”, where we had another “bath”. We had word that Point Noire was also out for Angola visas, so the plan now was to go to Brazzaville and cross into DRC and get the visas in Matadi. So first port of call was Dolisie. We arrived just before lunch and stayed at a small hotel. Proper showers beckoned, if you call a trickle, no hot water and having to squat under a tap a proper shower! The road from Dolisie was good but bumpy, and good progress was made. Up until the town of Bouansa that is. At a checkpoint after the town (which is a few kms off the main road) there was an extremely over officious policeman, who was adamant that we should have checked in with the police station in town, and have paperwork clearing our passage! An escort took us to the station, and that is where the comedy capers began. The chief wanted to fine everyone 9000CFA for not checking in, wanted to see all passports, truck documents, yellow fever certs, basically trying to find something he could charge us with. The “sit it out and wait” tactics eventually worked and he gave up. As it was late by this stage we camped across the road in a vacant gravel area. Later that evening one lad started to nail white sheets onto what we thought were goal posts. Then the whole town turned up and a bloke with a laptop and a projector played awful French films! We had camped in the towns drive in theatre! We had been told to leave early, so were ready to go at 6. Onto the road out….to discover the Sunday market being set up! No way through. Several attempts at a detour came to nothing, one took us 7km away to a mission in the hills, very bemused people there, we were sure some of them had never seen white people before. Back to town where we finally got someone to show us the way out. Two boggings later and we finally made it to the main road. Three more boggings that day, the last was a particularly bad one. One fuel tank ruptured on a hidden stone and a bit of diesel was lost. It started to get dark and all were worn out so we prepared to spend the night. Half an hour later a large truck full of locals appeared. More than a little bemused and concerned by our intention to stay, they towed us out and helped pack everything up. Apparently the area is well known for bandits known as “ninja’s”. So with their insistence to do so, we followed them 30kms in the dark to Kinkala. There we camped in front of a bar, where we had a well deserved rest.  From Kinkala the road improved dramatically and became new tarmac, until the outskirts of Brazzaville! Back to pothole hell! We eventually found Brazzaville beach, which is the port area to cross to Kinshasa, where it was hectic. People everywhere and utter madness. The police, customs, basically anyone in a uniform, were rampant thieves. As the ferry was being unloaded they would just rip stuff off the porters heads, and then fight them off with truncheons or whips. Quite sickening to watch actually. Finally was allowed to drive onto ferry at 1530, and then waited until 1610 before it started to move. The crossing took about 40 minutes, and then we had to wait ages for it to be unloaded before we could drive off. Very difficult task, as I had to reverse off and the bridge was narrow and at an odd angle! Passports and Carnet was sorted rather quickly, but the “computers were down” so the process could not be finalised until the morning. Luckily there were toilets and a bar, so we ended up camping in the port area. The morning was completely unexpected. It was as if everyone had got out of bed on the wrong side! Firstly they just yelled at us to go back to Brazzaville, saying our paperwork was not in order. Explanations that we had no Angola visa, but would get them in Matadi came to nought. The head guy wouldn’t help at all, and we just thought it was stalling for money tactics, but there was never any mention of money. Finally we were told we could go, thinking into DRC, but our entry stamps had been annulled. An attempt to have new ones resulted in our visas being annulled, and being forcibly put on the truck and made to drive onto the ferry. The police had the look of wild dogs, batons, belts, knuckle dusters came out and I was frog marched to the drivers seat. Our tables etc. were thrown into the truck. Only then were our passports returned. The return to Brazzaville was made with a flurry of phone calls. But the embassies proved to be of no use whatsoever. Luckily Congo allowed us back in with a minimum of fuss. We found a place to park up in a catholic school and dug in, this could take a while. The DRC embassy was visited the next day and they played the Angola visa line also. A few days later we received a fax from Angola’s Matadi embassy, stating that they would issue visas there. They said we should apply for new visas, but then changed their minds again! Obviously something is afoot! The following Monday we again attempted the embassy, only to be told to come back Thursday! Then we found some news on an obscure section of the BBC website, relating to our situation.  Police and security forces had attacked the headquarters of a separatist movement in Matadi, and the date corresponded with the ferry crossing. The embassy admitted that there was a “problem” so new plans had to be made. If we had been a day or two earlier into DRC, we may have been caught up in it. We couldn’t go back north as the rains had arrived, the route to Pointe Noire and a possible ship was do-able, but had to be attempted very soon, and obviously the route south was closed. The decision was made to fly out. So a secure place was found to store the truck, and we all flew out to Johannesburg. Two nights there, then a bus ride to Cape Town, where we are regrouping and preparing a replacement truck. No one was ready for such a change so quickly. The route through Angola and Namibia would have eased us back into “civilisation”, but this way we are all a little dis-orientated with the modern world.  The plan now, is to head north and travel Namibia in reverse and enter Botswana, then continue as normal. Consequently we are having the week off the trip here. Table Mountain, Robben Island, Cape Point, Cage diving with great white’s etc. There is plenty here to keep one occupied, even if we are early. This is the nature of African travel, it can be unpredictable. But we wouldn’t want it any other way. Patience, tact and abundance of time are necessary, and the would be traveller lacking in any of these essentials should seek lands where less primitive methods obtain. Ernest Henry Wilson (1876-1930)

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Angola Visas, Chimp Operations and more!

Posted by Chris Tamlin

Our attempts at getting Angola visas came to nothing, so we hot footed it out of Abuja. The night was spent on the Jos plateau with some amazing scenery. This time of the year the Harmattan winds sweep across northern sub Saharan Africa, consequently the air quality is very poor, so it was a nice change to have a clear night with spectacular star spotting. On to Yankari NP. The morning game drive was rather disappointing but still enjoyed. The highlight was the late morning down at Wikki Wikki warm springs, where a herd of Elephants were at very close quarters. A few run ins with some incredibly resourceful Baboons, had us very wary of leaving a crumb out! They managed to get inside the truck and steal some food not put away, no matter how it was secured. Next came a three day drive to the port city of Calabar. This was an essential stop, as this is the only place to acquire visas for Cameroon. The accommodation there left a lot to the imagination. ‘Paradise city’ was probably a very nice place, about twenty years ago! Run down to the max and rather expensive for its condition, we were very pleased to leave when the visas came through. Whilst waiting, we visited the Calabar Drill ranch. Drills are one of Africa’s most endangered primates. Most are recovered as orphans when their mothers were illegally shot for bush meat, quite a problem in West and Central Africa. Whilst there, an amazing opportunity arose. The need to neuter a female Chimpanzee had arisen (different sub species, restricting the gene pool etc) at the Afi Mountain Wildlife sanctuary. As Denise is a Veterinarian and Jackie is a Gynaecologist, they were asked if they would be willing to perform the operation. They agreed, so after acquiring visas we headed off to Afi Mountain. On the way out of Calabar we had a small nightmare; firstly we suffered a puncture, and then spent almost two hours in a traffic jam! Basically the jam was due to the impatience of Nigerian drivers, one of whom seemed intent on removing the mirrors from our truck! Arriving at Afi Mtn, after some wonderful rainforest roads, we set up camp, and the two Doctors discussed a plan of action. The next morning the patient, ‘Sali’, was darted and brought to the bush theatre for the procedure. I had the fortune of being photographer, so saw all that happened. It went very well, and the staff at the sanctuary were extremely grateful. We stayed long enough to see Sali come around, though still groggy, and then when satisfied that all was well, went on a tour of the ‘Kache Bano canopy walk-a way’. This is a forest walkway, suspended some 40m into the canopy. Amazing, and enjoyed by all. For more information on the work done by Drill ranch and Afi Mtn. wildlife sanctuary, contact Drill Ranch Calabar, H.E.P.O. Box 826, Calabar, Cross River State, Nigeria. Or e-mail: drill@hyperia.com. The afternoon was spent driving from Afi Mtn. to the border with Cameroon. Suddenly the Police stops became a hassle. Previous trips to Nigeria had shown the Police to be very ‘active’ in stopping tourists. Up until now, they had left us alone, so it was a bit annoying to say the least. Eventually we got through the border, after the numerous checks and crossed the bridge into Cameroon, and a whole new world! To say the roads are dreadful is quite simply a gross understatement. Within 5km, we had lost the muffler – crushed beyond recognition, so now we sound like a racing tractor! In all we barely made 15km before pulling over for a bush camp. Next day, in a word, worse. Craters the size of the truck, deviations that were hair raising, and broken down vehicles, one of which we had to repair before we could continue! At least we stopped to do so, most traffic just drove around. One car had three wheels off the ground at one point! Into Mamfe and a lunch stop, and an all too brief flirt with tarmac, then back onto the dirt.  That night we had the most interesting bush camp so far. As we had parked up only 500 m from a village, we had a few visitors. Gary and I went into the village to get some beers, and then almost all of them arrived for an impromptu party! We had the young kids dancing to music from the truck, where Chris was doing a Simon Cowell, and handing out empty water bottles to the best ones. Of course all got one in the end, only fair! We had the adults sampling our food, and they all loved a cup of tea! Eventually they wore us out and everyone went off to bed for a well deserved rest. In the morning the village brought us bread and gave us a very pleasant send off. Welcome to Cameroon! The bad road petered out after 35km, but the scenery continued to amaze us. Sweeping bridges, thick rainforest, vibrant towns and markets, where we became great friends with the locals in no time at all. Mid afternoon, we breezed into Limbe, with Mt. Cameroon in the background. A night on the town was in order and a very pleasant evening was spent in the live music bars.  The next mission was to get to Yaoundé. Firstly we had to pass through the port city of Douala, which amazingly was managed without a hitch, and arrived into the bustling capital. So far we have managed to get Congo and DRC visas. Still awaiting Gabon. Then we have a mad dash to get to Libreville before Monday for the last, but most important visas – Angola. Wish us luck! Keep moving! Steam, or gas or stage,Hold, cabin, steerage, hencoop’s cage – Tour, journey, voyage, lounge, ride, walk,Skim, sketch, excursion, travel-talk – For move you must! ‘Tis now the rage,The law and fashion of the age.Samuel Taylor Coleridge (1772-1834)From ‘The delinquent travellers’

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